7 March. After arriving at Gare du Nord Paris, we made our way to Paris St. Lazare train station for the 2 hour trip to Bayeux in Normandy, (marked by the “A” pin on the map).
Bayeux, (pronounced Bye-you), was the first town liberated by the allies after D-day, and was never harmed. However, Caen, 20 miles to the Southeast, was brutally destroyed (75% of it), and has been rebuilt. All the Normandy D-day tours begin in Bayeux.
We checked into the Hotel Churchill, and then walked a short distance to the Bayeux Tapestry Museum.
Now, I’ve seen lots of tapestries, and most of the time I politely say, “That was very nice.” But this is different. It’s not really a tapestry, but a 1.6’ x 225’ embroidered cloth, that depicts the story of William, Duke of Normandy, and how he became William the Conqueror, and King of England. It “probably” dates back to 1077, and was done in pictures so the parishioners, who were illiterate, could understand the story.
Most everyone knows that William the Conqueror defeated Kind Harold at the Battle of Hastings in 1066. You knew that, right? Well, now you do. Do you know why a Norman like William would travel from France to fight a battle in England? I wasn’t quite sure, until I visited the Tapestry Museum. I know your time is precious, so I’ll try to keep the story succinct.
Edward the Confessor, childless and nearing death, wanted his cousin, William, the Duke of Normandy, to succeed him. In 1064, he sent his brother-in-law, Harold Godwinson, the Earl of Wessex, to Bayeux, Normandy, to inform William of the planned succession. During the crossing, Harold was blown off course, and captured by unfriendly forces. William ransomed Harold and saved his life. Together, William and Harold went off to battle and defeated Conan II, Duke of Brittany. On that occasion, William knighted Harold and with his hand on religious relics, Harold swore loyalty to William.
Harold returned to England, and shortly thereafter, Edward the Confessor died. Harold did not want a Norman king. He was a Saxon, and felt that Saxons should rule England. Ignoring Edward’s desires, and his pledge of loyalty to William, Harold Godwinson was crowned King in January, 1066. William gathered an army of Normans to teach Harold that it is not nice to break an oath of loyalty and sneak upon the throne.
At the Battle of Hastings, Harold was shot in the eye with a Norman arrow, and English history changed dramatically.
William then set about building castles and fortresses throughout England – places like the Tower of London and Windsor Castle. He didn’t want someone else doing as he had done – conquering England.
There’s no need to be charitable or polite. This tapestry is quite a treasure, and the museum is very well done. I loved it!
We then visited the Bayeux Cathedral (1077) and walked about the town. I love medieval cathedrals and this one is especially beautiful inside and out.
Bayeux is a beautiful and gracious medieval city. If our French faltered – and it often did – no problem! The people of Normandy did their best to speak English and make us feel welcome. What wonderful people in Normandy!
THE REST OF THE STORY
Near the British War Cemetery in Bayeux, there is a memorial that commemorates those killed in the Battle of Normandy, and the advance to the Seine from 6th June to 29th August 1944, but have no known grave. Inscribed on the top is, “NOS A GULIELMO VICTI VICTORIS PATRIAM LIBERAVIMUS”
Freely translated, it means: "We, once conquered by William, have now set free the Conqueror's native land."
Freedom comes at a terrible price. In the Bayeux War Cemetery, 4,144 British Commonwealth soldiers have been buried.
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